Spirits of the Volcanoes.......what do you see in the mountain...?

October 29, 2010

Just when I think I have my travel plans all worked out in a somewhat linear fashion, since it makes sense to travel north to south, with east and west excursions....everything seems to change again.

Otavalo has been my home more or less for the past 3 weeks, since I had started my training with Don Esteban.
Before I came to Ecuador, I had asked Spirit, to be connected with the Volcanoes. By that I mean, to be connected not just feeling the land, but also knowing it without a doubt in my mind, heart and soul. I was looking for a deep connection, that would be palpable at all times, not just in moments of heightened awareness.

When I first went to Don Esteban, I had no clear idea what to expect or how anything would unfold. Don Esteban and his wife Rosa do not speak spanish. So his grandson, Esteban Jr., materialized to translate from Quichua into spanish. I was told, we would be doing ceremonies, six of them and traditional Shaman treatments.
Over the past three years I had been training in Shamanism with John Perkins and Lyn Roberts, who had worked for many years with Don Esteban. Which is what led me here to Otavalo. Although I was familiar with the treatments and had a general understanding of the ceremonies, I was very much taken by surprise, with the level of intensity it unfolded.
Every weekend I took the bus up the Pan American to the Carabuela gas station. From there it was about a 40 minute walk to Don Esteban´s house. Before I would reach his door, I had to make my way by cows, village dogs and then the pack of dogs that reside at Don Esteban´s house. Not an easy task, considering I often had Sky with me, but we figured it out soon enough. A stick in hand would keep the dogs from advancing to closely, in case one wanted to attack. Some of them are fierce.
The first ceremony was to be with Taita Imbabura. I was told to open my mind and my heart and concentrate on the task at hand, to connect with the spirit of Imbabura.
This involved a cleaning and purifycation process with the help of flower water, eggs, rocks, smoke and fire blowing. It was very intense. I already received visions during the ceremony. That night my homework was to meditate with red candles, wearing a read bandana for the next 24 hours, eating no meat of any kind, onions or garlic or take a shower, as that would weaken the connection.
The ceremony had left me exhausted and I smelled something between the sweet fragrance of Roses and the stale odor of pure alcohol. We made our way back to town the same way we had arrived, although not without catching some strange looks or smiles along the way. Not that I cared. I was very focused on the way my feet felt, when they connected with the ground. Not knowing what to expect, it felt like walking in a dark tunnel when all the senses go into hyper alert. In the evening vision I saw a appx. 10 meter waterfall. I was standing above it looking down. On the other side of the fall sat a young, not yet fully matured Condor. He said:..jump... I looked down again and exclaimed...it´s pretty far and I don´t know if there are rocks in the water. He said:...trust me and jump...and I will take you flying. The next moment we entered through a portal in the mountain, next to a very large rock, into the world of the ancient ones. Then we exited comming by a large rock of gold, from which a golden cord extended far out. The cord was at first thick and strong, but got thinner at intervals. Then the vision was over.
I was excited, but had no clue what it meant.
The next day Don Esteban also got excited. He explained that the waterfall and Portal in the mountain are real places and the Condor is often used to speak through. It has been an intense 3 weeks. Each ceremony was different. Some were challenging. For Mama Cotacachi I had to go up to Lake Cuicocha to receive her vision for me. La Mojanda was pure pleasure and Pachamama was amazing.
It occured to me just yesterday, that I was receiving through Don Esteban exactly what I had asked Spirit for, before I came to Euador.
As our time here is comming to an end, I had been starting to make travel plans around Ecuador. This morning however, when I awakened, I clearly heard....you need to go to Galapagos next.....Wow....that hadn´t really been on my schedule.
Sky and I were walking back to Otavalo this morning from our mountain retreat, when I met a mid thirtyish Ecuadoran. We talked for a while. Turns out, he had lived on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos for many years and worked there as a dive guide. Now he resides in Geneve, Switzerland and works as a life guard. Of course, I got the ins and outs on where to go and what to do in the Galapagos Islands.

The Spirit of Ecuador

October 18, 2010

It has been easy to foot it through Ecuador. Less things to worry about with the Bus.
Certainly a lot cheaper to travel with public buses, as the fuel is super expensive here. Occassionally an eyebrow is raised when Sky comes on the bus with me, but so far we have not had any problems. I do miss my bus, which enabled me to go wherever we wanted to go in the moment. Without it, I have to think and plan ahead or find myself needing to backtrack, because I saw something interesting along the way.
Some of the roads in Ecuador are so steep, I have my doubts, if Bluebird would even be able to make these grades.
Dropping into Quito was a bit of a shock. The city is humongues. It seemed almost impossible to locate myself on a city map within the old town, without asking for more directions on every other corner. The city does have some interesting sites to visit,
once you adjust to the altitude and can climb the steep streets. We did not while for long there, but headed out to Otavalo, to a more quiet and relaxed setting.
Otavalo is surrounded by 3 large Volcanoes reaching to 4.960 meters, whereas the town sits at 2550 meters. It is pretty quiet here during the week until Friday, when everything shifts into hyper activity. On the weekend the streets are filled with market stands of handcrafts, artesania and clothing. The town is very well known for its crafts and marketdays. Many tourists from Quito and beyond congregate onto Otavalo for this occassion. An animal market takes place every Saturday, where cows, pigs, chicken, rabbits, dogs, cats and whatever else being traded and hackled for.
The villagers from sourrounding areas come to buy, trade or sell their goods here and the food market is brimming with people. It is a phantastic time to watch people, to take in all the colorful traditional clothing, the local food and also an opportunity to make some pictures. For the most part, Quichuas do not like to be photographed by the tourists, which is understandable. Once you get to know someone or a family personally, they have no problems with that and always want a copy for themselves.
We have hiked all around the surrounding villages such as Peguche and it´s waterfall.
Visited the Park de Condors and even found the famous 1000 year old Pucura Lechero Tree. The trails are pretty steep, but it is easy to find your way and the views are amazing. I love all the foot travel and the people we get to meet this way.
One day I ran into a couple of Quichuas, who invited me on a trip, after we had shared some food and juice. They weren´t really clear about where we were going or when we would be back, nor did I ask at the time. So we just took off, rode a couple of buses for about 3 hours and arrived in a tiny village, called Rio Blanco, somewhere northwest of Otavalo. It turned out, we were visiting family members.
A simple, but big dinner was served for all. They had many questions about Alaska, my dog and my life. When they found out I was solo, there were many suggestions who in their family or their neighbors family I could marry. We laughed a lot. Later on we all settled down to listen to one of the brothers play flute, before turning in for the night. The next morning we hiked to a waterfall for bathing and then piled into a pick up truck for a local sightseeing tour for my benefit.
The village sits on the confluence of two rivers in a narrow valley at about 1600 meters.
Everything seemed to grow there. I saw Cotton plants, Tabacco, Pineapple, Banana and many different flower bushes. There was a fair presence of Afroecuadoran people, which I had already also noticed in Ibarra, a town just north of Otavalo. The surrounding area of Otavalo and the town itself is inhabitated by appx. 70% indigenous (Quichua). In the early afternoon we said our good-byes to the family, who heartedly invited me to come and visit again, and rode on buses back to Otavalo. Since then, my new friends, one or the other would call to find out if I wanted to go somewhere or hear some musicians. It has been great. We have hiked around Lake Cuicocha, visited some more villages and listened to local traditional bands.
There are no words to really discribe the sounds, sights and impressions. So many moments of beauty, of shared laughter with passing families, stepping under the crashing waterfall or sharing a snack with a few women and their children working in the field.
Now I have started my training with one of the Shaman in a nearby village and will be immersing myself in the Spirits of the Volcanoes.

The next chapter........

We arrived in the outskirts of San Jose a week ago, in a small town named San Rafael. I had met John, Max and Bill in Granada, Nicaragua. They are all expats living in Costa Rica for many years and had offered me a place to stay.
My plans to ship Bluebird from here to Ecuador fell apart upon learning,the Roll on/Roll off
service has been suspended indefenitively from here and there hasn;t been any from Panama for some time. I could ship Bluebird in a container for appx. $ 2000 from either here or Panama, but that is a lot of money. The cost from Panama to Colombia is just about the same.

So our trip came to a grinding halt. Now what.....?
It rained for at least 5 days straight with intermittent downpours. Although we have a comfortable place to stay, I felt stuck.
Many calls and more research on shipping possibilities led to nothing new. Brrrr.....
Max offered his garage to park Bluebird securely and we could fly to Ecuador, knowing that the bus will be okay. It had already occured to me to leave the bus behind and backpack into South America instead. But what about my stuff? I can not backpack with the guitar, the drum and a slew of other things, besides the necessary clothing and shoes.
I spent a few days struggling through the mace of thoughts and what I knew deep down, that needed to happen. John and I drove all over San Jose from one government agency to another, figuring out how to get an extension on my car permit and the mandatory insurance, but ran into one block after another. Leaving without the proper documents was not an option either, as there would be hefty fines and taxes to be paid later.
When it comes to dealing with government agencies, Costa Rica is still very much black and white. Finding the agencies is even more of an adventure. They are tucked away in inconspicious buildings, with no signs or hints of their existence, all over the city.
By the first of October I had enough, something needed to shift. I realized, I still had not really made a decision on how to proceed or what I wanted to do.
I had a dream the night before. We arrived in Ecuador with a backpack only, but when I opened it, there was nothing in it. I had forgotten all my clothes. "Oh gosh", I thought,
I will have to go back and get it."
I decided that morning, to fly to Ecuador....since my inner compass had been urging me to get there and come back later to pick up Bluebird, drive to Panama and then cross to Colombia and drive from there to Peru eventually. Somehow I know, that portion of the journey is to be made with someone else. Why...? I have no clue.
Miracously, on Friday, everything fell into place. There is such a thing, as suspending the car permit, by parking it in a custom;s certified secured lot, where I can pick it up whenever and have the remaining time left on the original permit. Very simple...and it only costs $ 16 a month. The same day, the veterinarian called, to let me know, he had obtained the stamp from the Ecuadorian embassy for Sky,s papers and we are good to go.
Wow...what a process! I am so happy today, dancing around the apartment and clapping my hands to music inside my head.