Content in Nicaragua

September 11, 2010

It has just been fabulous in Nicaragua.
Granada, the crown jewel of Nicaragua on the northern end of Lake Nicaragua is a beautiful, old colonial city. Although a bit more touristy, it still was nice to be there and enjoy the comforts of a pleasant city.
The journey to Ometepe island in Lake Nicaragua turned out to be magical. The island, actually it looks more like two islands, each having a Volcano on it and joined together by a peninsula, is dotted with small villages around each Volcano. Concepcion, 1640 meters, is still active and a perfectly shaped cone with very steep ascends. Maderas is lower by 400 meters and more moderate. Getting to either takes some effort. Since this is still the rainy season, the roads were disastrous around Maderas and the great waterfall at San Ramon could not be reached, unless I wanted to ride a horse or an ox. As soon as we had stepped on the island I could feel this energy of peace and beauty there. I was content to explore the villages and hillsides around Concepcion, which has a semi paved road. Later on I did venture on the dirt track to one of the villages of Maderas, but the driving was dicey.
We hiked a lot, howled with the monkeys, watched birds and swam in the lake. Many of the villages are indigenous (Nahautl), farming the land and raising cattle. As a matter of fact, Nicaragua is full of cows. You never drive far anywhere without meeting a herd of cows on the road. Life on the island has a slow pace and the people always seem to smile or laugh. It was such a pleasure being there, just hanging out with the villagers. Ojo de Agua, a fresh water spring on the Isthmus, between Maderas and Concepcion, shaded by large old trees, was the perfect place to find relief from the intense heat of the day.
By now we have arrived in San Juan del Sur, near the Costa Rica border, on the Pacific. It is a cool little town, with plenty of international Surfer Dudes. The waves here are impressive, maybe not quite as rough as in El Salvador, but supposedly a highlight on a Surfer´s itinerary. Getting to the beaches is another matter. It requires a boat ride or up to over an hour on a shuttle over incredible rough terrain. And that is only possible if it hasn´t rained much, otherwise the rivers can not be crossed.
The reward are unspoiled beaches. Right now the Survivor Nicaragua serious is being filmed at Yankee Beach, about 12 to 15 km´south from San Juan. I came by there one day, while on the way to El Coco, to the La Flor Reserve, to look for Olive Ridley Turtles. It looked like the Survivors were living in the ¨Jungle¨in a compound and the helicopter is flying back and forth every day numerous times.
I am enchanted with Nicaragua. The country is very diverse and so beautiful. From what I heard, the eastern part would also be worthwhile to explore, but that should be done in the dry season.
It is funny to hear how the citizen of each central American country rate each other.
According to Guatemalans, El Salvadorans and Nicaraguans....Mexico is the most dangerous place for them to travel to. Guatemala is next for Nicaraguans and El Salvadorans. Guatemalans think it is dangerous for them in Honduras and El Salvador also. Looking back, I realize, that I had projected a lot of fear about El Salvador.
Traveling through there, was like a right of passage. Since then, I have reached a new level of feeling content. No matter where or what country I was in, the people have been amazing with their generosity, love and hospitality. It is so beautiful to connect with all people from the heart, leaving behind any pre-conceptions of differences and embracing all there is.