July 27, 2010
Someone in El Remate told me, that Lago Peten Itza and the Tikal region is the center of the Earth, or also referred to as the eye of the world.
I am not sure it was meant to be a geographical reference, but perhaps more so on a spiritual plane. Guatemala is known here as the " Soul of the Earth ". Its people are gentle, always smiling and welcoming. Even the street dogs are friendlier as had been the case in Mexico.
The Peten region is a gentle landscape with endless jungle terrain. It felt very soothing there. Another single traveler and I hiked the Biosphere of Cahui to the top, where we were rewarded with a great view of the region along with Butterflies, Spider monkeys and gigantic Grass Hoppers.
Kristen wanted to go to Semuc Champey, which was in the general direction I was planning to go to, so we departed together. I was glad to have a passenger, since I was still a little fearful of isolated Guatemalan highways. Our destination was Lanquin. At first the highway was paved for a few hours, including a barge river crossing at Sayache, over the rio de pasion. Not too long after that it changed to good unpaved road. Then not so good anymore, but still passable. We had realized at the river crossing, that the buses are not using this route. It became clear to us, why everyone had told us it was a long way, but a good road. Only we were on a different route, more directly. The map had shown pavement most of the way.
The countryside we traveled through, changed from baja Verapaz with gentle rolling terrain to alta Verapaz. Here we started to climb higher and ever deeper into mountainous rock formations, covered with fauna. The road became smaller and steeper with every curve until it was barely passable anymore for Bluebird. Eventually we climbed over the last pass and reached Bahal,which has a paved road going toward Antigua. The turnoff to Lanquin was another dirt road, winding steep up and down the mountain. By the time we reached Lanquin, I was exhausted and frustruated with myself for having put Bluebird on such treacherous terrain and risking break downs from all the rumbling. Kristen was able to catch a ride up to Semuc Champey. I stayed in Lanquin. While looking for a place, I heard a noise coming from the rear wheel. It did not sound good. The town is a cramped village, stuck to the side of a mountain, surrounded by lush green mountains. The people were very friendly. I was told there was a good, reliable mechanic in town. Not to worry. Hahhh....! That night, I was fighting with demons of my own imagination. Instead of trusting in the path ahead of me, I had side stepped it, by having someone along for the wrong reason.
I jumped on an all day tour to Semuc Champey the next morning, because I needed to clear the fog out of my mind. This village is even further up the mountain. We hiked up a mountain from there to an amazing view. Below us was a roaring river, that suddenly turned into cascading quiet pools, emerald green like the surrounding fauna. Once we had descended, it was off into the pools. The water was fresh, but not cold. Semuc Champey means ..river going underground below rocks...This explained the sudden change of the river current. We continued for a tube ride down the river below the pools, where the river emerges again. After lunch, it was off to the Caves of las Marias. WOW...! You go in barefoot in a bathing suit with a candle. There is one guide, who has a headlamp, but prefers to use his own candle only. He helped us over the difficult passages. Otherwise you are on your own, wading through the river, climbing up and down rickety ladders, squeezing through tight holes and swimming in the deep sections, while holding your candle with one hand above the water. This was just unbelievable. I was in awe and so happy to be once again inside Mother Earth. I slept really well that night. Bluebird got fixed by the mechanic the next morning for 100 Quetzals. Something had broken on the rear brake.
In my mind I saw Bluebird climbing back up that mountain to the paved road, while the mechanic was working on the bus and I realized how different I felt this morning. The drive to Coban was beautiful. We will be here for a few days, before moving on to Antigua and Lago Atitlan.
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